Cars stuff continues

looking for answers if the new trans oil doesn't do what was expected. Might take some time and miles for it to work. Read all kinds of results from using different oils, or even mixtures, and many have been tried. The oil that is supposed to be better for what I want to improve, isn't said to be good for certain parts. Trying to figure my own blend based on what is involved. Learning about the oils, additives and the gears. Would like to tweak things, and maybe solve problems. Taking a gallon of expensive oil, and difficult to change, I want to try to figure out what should work, and be safe, before trying it, and sneak up on it.

known about this site for months, but wasn't that interested, since most newsletters didn't talk about things I wanted to know, but found they have a search feature with Tons of info.

http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Articles/Search?query=gl+5+oil

The internet is a WEALTH of info!!

got a reply from one email with some info and suggestions

Drove the Subaru this evening and the trans seems to be shifting better Didn't have any problems getting into reverse Before it was hard every few times Now it just goes right it Other actions seem to be improving slowly Might just take time but is looking worth the effort

The guy who replied to me is helpful but doesn't seem to answer some questions. He seems to know the oils, But what I understand is the additive in the oils putting a coating on some of the gears that it is good for them each time the gears mesh because heat and friction cause it, that I am thinking trying to adjust the amt by mixing oils with none or less because the force is divided between 2 axles, and as much might not be needed, which is good for other parts the additive is said to attack, he doesn't explain some things. In what I understand the additive keeps coating the gears and parts everytime they mesh or are exposed, he said should wear off in time, like the gears were coated when made. Some are said to be coated with carbon when made which sounds like he might be talking about.

The additive is said to form acids with heat and friction and corrode the other parts, but then you read, and I think he even said, there are buffers added to the oil that negates it, BUT then there is info that the additive peels off some of the metal from the softer parts, and eventually wear them out, which I would like to avoid.

He didn't answer my question about having 2 axles moving the car if that puts less force and friction on the gears of each, which would be my belief, but he says that some systems that are made to handle more power where different sized motors can be used with them, he says that they can be over designed, like that helps with the oil/ additive mix situation.

Trying to learn exactly how the parts work to try to figure out or understand how to try to compensate for problems that may arise. Would be nice if the mfg would have made the items where the oils needed for 2 different items, that need 2 different ones aren't separated. Doesn't seem like it would have been that hard to do.

Probably run into the guy I know who said I was too particular, and his SUV doesn't have any problems. Probably has others, but he isn't capable of trying to solve them if he understood them. I might just do a search and see what people are complaning about his SUV. Might have a ton.))

well, my Saran Wrap axle joint cover still looks like it is holding up. Not sure it is perfect and doesn't leak, but looks in tact. Wonder if the axle grease will damage it?

not fixed yet. The old car shut off again. Restarted in a min. Last time it wouldn't restart. Guess it's an improvement. The other day I drove it about 7 mi., and it ran fine. Made it to the diner in the newer car. I dread having serious problems with it, since they will be expensive. Problem is the error code reader costs 2K$, not 50, and you have to be authorized to buy it. Looking for an option. There is one that might be and is free, but you need a laptop and cable.

coolant leak on the Chevy is slowing a lot. Still loosing some, but little. Want to get the wheels alligned, to see if that's why it started pulling, after I went up a curb with the minit spare on. Think the rim hit. If not it's a brake problem. It's minor but annoying, since i have to hold the wheel when driving. though seems to be less, which could be the brakes. Looking for a place to get it done. Not sure the shop I went to before is still open. Have to go look. Expecting places to say the tires are dangerous, being dry rotted. That's just the outside that is mainly protection from abrasions. The strength of a tire is the fabric inside, and the rubber on the inside holds the air. even a different compound that is less porus. One of the back tires Looks really bad, with 2" long splits in the rubber 1/8" wide. When I saw them having the tire off, I didn't want to look at them, since they were scary looking, even for me. Just drive the car in the city at off peak hrs, so not worried about them, and they are probably safe, like I believe. Never had tire problems unless I ran over something that cut them.

Snowing out but still may try to get the Chevy aligned. Will be interesting what they say about the Saran Wrap cover I have on the axle joint, that I hope is still holding to try to keep water and dirt out. With 2 rubber boots that had broken on the same joint, it isn't supposed to be long before the joint fails, though the first one broke about 6 yrs ago, and don't know how long they were broken, which could determine if there was any damage. Tried to replace the boot 2X this summer, with a Jiffy/Speedy Boot, that doesn't need taking the axle off, that aren't being made anymore, so thought I got lucky, but one was too big, and the other too small. There is the normal one, but that needs the axle to be taken off. It's as much work as replacing the boot, and a new axle costs 40$, and comes with the boots installed. Might have to replace it anyway if the axle is already damaged, and if not and the Saran Wrap holds up, I saved money and work.

The Subaru has twice as many boots, 8 instead of 4, and 2 sit above the exhaust pipes, and probably fail from the heat, that I'd like to try to prevent or delay. Not sure if aluminum foil will do it. May do foil over Saran Wrap.

gona be fun finding the Chevy. No telling where they put it, as bad as parking is around here, and covered in snow, will be hard to find, and I don't walk great with no snow on the ground.

Walked around a bit to look in obvious places, but no go. Might have to enlist the Subaru...

Where is that Stress maker??

called the cops again to make sure the Chevy wasn't impounded. Told me the general location/address of the car, about 6 blocks away. Sounds like a food store parking lot there. Debating whether to go get it or wait, till parking is definitely allowed on the main street. Probably safe from towing by the store for a few days. Going to be windy out tonite, and sounds like it started already.

With my concern about the oil in the transaxle (trans/axle) in the Subaru. which share the same oil, but have different requirements where the oil that is good for the axle Might be bad for the transmission, in that additives (sulfur that when it gets hot can form sulfuric acid) is protective for the front axle gears, might be corrosive for parts in the trans. Brass, that is a copper/ zinc alloy, I want to use what is best for both that is a juggling act. Sulfur is said to be Non reactive now, but questions still afe asked. How they test it is immerse copper strips in the oil, and heat it, and check for corrosion. I tried to have the dip stick plated, half with copper, and silver that indicates faster but an antique plating shop sends the work out, and I didn't go where they go. Aluminum foil is said to indicate corrosion from acid, so wrapped some around the dip stick, but rather use copper. Could use copper foil, and stained glass makers use it, and there is a shop on the way to where the Chevy was moved, so going to try to get some when I go get the car. Can also shop in the food store that I believe the Chevy was moved to, and save a trip to a store, though I don't shop in that chain anymore, I can pick up some items, and may find some deals.

retrieved theChevy, but it wasn't where I thought. The street has an Eastand West side, and I went to the east which was the more logical, but it was on the west, so I walked twice as far. Had to stop a few times to rest, and had a few tickets, but at least a towing co didn't take it. That could have really gotten expensive.

Passed through thepark, and stopped in the diner. The loonie was there, but didn't say anything, so I caught a break. Didn't pass by, so maybe just delayed. He got talking to a stranger asking, what is 42 across, and chuckling... Loonie...

Hadn't checked the coolant leve in the Chevy for a few days, because it wasn't going down much, and it was too cold, snowy, and missing. Last night the stop leak must have blown out since it was pouring out after I got home, and having driven it a good bit since i last checked. Added more stop leak and water but need more. Wanted to go do it early, after i woke, but time is passing and I'm getting tired, so going to be a while. Might have to get it repaired or a new radiator, but thinking the new stat is bad. making it overheat, causing some of the problems.

have to get out and add coolant to the Chevy. Guess I'll drive the Sube, and just swap with the Chevy, till the coolant stops leaking.

need to find a place I can store a car for a few weeks. 3 of a car I got really interested in are up for auction next week. It is a city auction where they tow your car if you have a lot of tickets, or aren't legal. If it was a Live Stop, you know the car was running. They can go real cheap, 300$, but you have to wait to get the title, tags, and Ins, and can't park them legally till you do, and the city could tow them. The value of the cars is 5-7K$. It is a lot of car, and good looking, and I have been interested when I see one on the street. Another problem is, they aren't the most reliable, so would get an extended warranty.

A friend gets all the cars he uses for work at the auction, and only paid 300 for the last 2, an sold the last one for 200 for junk.

cars... cars... cars... 3 of them. Do I go for Another, and have 3?? Debating about one at a used car dealer, and 3 at an auction.The one at the dealer has miles on it, and no telling about the other 3 till the auction. Owners LOVE the car, but also, it can be unreliable The cars from the auction have to be hidden till you get the title, to even insure them, and have no keys, and have to be towed from the auction site.

The one at the dealer, and the auction, may need service as soon as gotten. Normally I would do the work myself, but that would take time, and probably shouldn't wait, to be sure the motor doesn't fail. Thinking of going to see the dealer one, just to see if I like the car in person, and check theirs out, so I know something about the ones at the auction, that you can't see till the auction day.

Found shop manuals on Ebay for 30$, that I would want if I bought one of the cars, and may buy them to be sure I have them, even if I don't get a car, and be able to learn about them, for the knowledge. I bought a manual for another car I was interested in, that decided not to buy.

Trying to find out things that are needed, if I did buy one, like can I get keys from the dealer cheaply, instead of getting a lock smith? Remembering, I know one. ave to check a mechanic or dealer to find out what the maintance can cost. Complicated stuff.

got hold of the lock smith. A disabled guy, who can't do what I would need, but told me why it can take so long and cost so much. The auction cars, would be a lot harder to deal with, but even from a dealer could be complicated.

Watched the Super Bowl, and got tired, and slept, so didn't go out, and now I'm up, and will be for a while, probably most of the nite.

reading some scary things about the car I am interested in, like the steering can go out on them, and if I get one that people give up, instead of paying tickets, they might have had problems, or not worth getting back, and not maintained very well. The car is mighty complicated, having a lot of bells and whistles, so lots to go wrong. Wouldn't be bad if I had a garage or place to work on it, if needed, so could get expensive to get fixed. Going to have to think Hard about it, but I usually do anyway.

I have to get out and test drive one at a dealers, to see if I even like the car, and then see what insurance will cost, and getting keys, and where I can store it off the street, till the title comes in. A Lot of complications.

Getting scared about the car I am interested in, especially one that people will let go for money for tickets they owe. Reading horror stories about the steering and saftey, and repairs not solving the problems. Some could be bad repair work, but sounds like too many, even from dealers. I would like to find out things I wanted to, about the price of insurance, and where I could store it till I can legally put it on the road, but seems like it might be just going through the motions, and things like the weather and how I am feeling, aren't agreeing, and if I did get one, will it just be something nice to look at?

going to pass on the car I was interested in. Too many concernes about reliability, and saftey. Some things sounding like they couldn't be fixed, with certain cars. Other owners claim long, trouble free service, and Love the car. Sounds some problems cropped up with certain parts, that should have been recalled and replaced, but some sound like thy might have needed major repairs. Might have been a crap shoot, hoping the car I got was a good one, but some problems were too severe, and cause catastrophic failure, and expensice to repair, and that didn't always solve the problem for long, so could be fixing it just to get rid of it, so money, time, aggrivation, and maybe injury. I thought about how to get around the problems if they surfaced, or prevent them from happening before they could, but sounded like too many, and too complicated, even if I had the place to do it. Then there was the problems with getting a car from the aucton, to try to get one Real cheap, to make it worth any hassles, and what you have to do to get them on the road, but more work than it might be worth.

This is the 4th car that I wanted, that didn't seem worth the work or expense.

The gods aren't smiling. Gona be 40deg and 50mph gusts tomorrow at the auction. Not good, looking at questionable cars. Guess that solves that.

learning more about the car I am interested in. To change the fuel pump, the gas tank has to be removed, so gets expensive. I like the ones like in my Subaru, that you get to by taking out the back seat, and removing an access cover. Before fuel injection, they bolted onto the motor like on my old Chevy. I replaced that once years ago, and thought it had gone again, so had to order one. When I found out it wasn't bad, I returned it, but thought that another time, and even though it wasn't bad again. I picked up the one I returned, so didn't have to special order it, and carry it with me. They only cost 25$. The electric ones cost about 150$.

Making a list of pro's and con's of the car I want.))

Thought my night vision was going bad, and things getting hard to see, but had headlights out. One low and one high beam quit. I have new ones, and replaced the low beam, but the new ones they sell now are a different type, and brighter. I replaced the low one, and decided to buy another and replace the other with the new type. I have new high beams I never installed, and decided to replace them all. Replacing the bad low beam makes me legal and functioning, and I hate other cars where the lights aren't working, with them harder to see and to see, and almost hitting 2 kids on bikes, who did foolish things at night, wasn't helped by my light out, since I might have seen them sooner. Got out before dark yesterday and replaced one, and trying to get out today to do the others. Some rain is coming, so would like to get moving, which isn't easy, without an urgency like with the low beam.

The radio is still acting up occasionally, and freezing on a station. It will usually do it for a day, but last time it was stuck on one station for 3 days. A friend gave me his old radio that fits the dash, but has a theft lock function that could cost a good bit to get unlocked, if I can't do it myself from instructions I have found, that are a bit confusing. Taking the dash apart to swap them won't be fun, so makes me hesitate.